Here we must return to our starting point on the Braes of Balquhidder and pick our leisurely eastern sojourn along the northern side of Loch Earn going towards Crieff with the Loch on our right and in full view. In stark contrast to the south side of the Loch, the northern side offers quite a different topography - it displays large expanses of treeless high hill ranges (well above 500m above sea level) with the tree line being in evidence in sections and stopping about 450 metres above it. Our perambulation of the northern portion of the Loch starting at Glen Ogle takes us between the massif of Meall na Cloiche (663m) and its smaller eastern neighbour, Meall a’ Mhadaidh (hill of the dog or wolf) above Lochearnhead and continues into that lesser known Fault Line which created Glen Beich (glen of the birches) and which goes under Loch Earn to join Glen Ample on the other side of the Loch. The land above 450 metres is rounded and softer and expanses itself into broad moorland punctuated with fewer glens of less defined features than its counter parts on the south side of the Loch.

Its highest point, and a bit inland, is Sron Mhor (671m) (great slope running from a mountain to a strath and the surrounding area is one of bog and heather but fairly flat land at this height. The going is relatively easy although one should always come prepared for the weather which can change rapidly. Creag Each (672m) (crag of the horse) is a rocky outcrop supported by Meall Reamhar (round lump of a hill) leading towards Glen Tarken (tearc - glen of the cows) over open moorland to the now, long abandoned clachans of Easter and Wester Glen Tarken. These clachans once housed possibly 150 people (of which more later). In Wester Glen Tarken there is a house called “Jerusalem” - no-one knows why it is so called! The clachans lie just below an enormous boulder which was left from the Ice Age. It rests rather precariously on the edge of the hill and it was said that near here the MacNabs of Killin abandoned their boat after slaughtering the Neishes (see chapter on the massacre). The Glen Tarken Burn flows passed the abandoned villages and further east we come across Allt an Fhionn (burn of the chief) which sources itself in Creag Odhar (dun-coloured crag). Continuing onward to the east and more inland lies Loch Boltachan. At this place another earlier battle between the MacNabs and the Neishes was fought. Passing the knoll called the Girron we come down to the waterside at the picturesque village of St. Fillans with its lonely crannog, Neish or Neish’s Island, 150 yards off shore. Originally the village was called several names including Little Port, Portmore, Port of Lochearn, Meikleport, and at one time, Lochearnend. Here the Loch empties into the River Earn.

Turnpike Bridge, St.Fillans

Staying on the high ground and beyond Loch Boltachan (botachan-mounds and/or bothach-marsh) we come to Little Port Hill (459m) arcing over to Creag Bhuide (460m) (yellow crag) to Creag an t- Sidhein (crag of the fairy hill) and Creag Lhiath (grey crag) passing that ancient place Drum na Cille with its cup-marked stones to the Crappich Hill (craobhach - wooded?). On yet and down through the Chapel Pass with Sgorr Racaineach (405m) (rounded hill with furrowed surface) on our left, we reach Dun More with Lord Melville’s monument at its summit. Below, lying in the flat land lays the Village of Comrie with its three rivers, the Earn, the Ruchill and the Lednock clearly in view.

Sput Rolla (Spout Rolla)